Svartifoss (The Black Falls) in the Skaftafell National Park is surrounded by black, hexagonal basalt columns. It falls 20 m into a beautiful ravine that is accessible along a trail starting at the Visitor's Centre. You can follow the trail to the bottom of the ravine, thus enjoying the fall and the walls up close. In the 20th century, the walls surrounding Svartifoss were an inspiration to various Icelandic architects. The impression of their extraordinary formations is quite apparent in Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavik, as well as in the ceiling of the Icelandic National Theatre. Svartifoss is also where the world-renowned sculptor Richard Serra drew his inspiration for his sculpture Milestones, located on Viðey Island, offshore from Reykjavik. The base of the ravine is quite remarkable. Apart from the small lake created by Svartifoss, it is strewn with sharp rocks that have broken away from the hexagonal columns, as new column sections break faster than the water wears down the edges. The hike from the Visitor's Centre, or the Skaftafell camping site, only takes 30 minutes. But once by the fall, visitors tend to linger for quite some time, simply to admire nature's unique sense of beauty and harmony. Location in Iceland

You need to consider three things when renting a car or choosing the best car type to rent for your road trip and vacation in Iceland. The quality of the roads leading to your chosen destinations, the time of year, and the weather. Renting a car for a road trip around Iceland is by far the most convenient and interesting way to travel in Iceland. By hiring a car, visitors taking a road trip to Iceland can choose an itinerary that fits their budget and schedule. This way, they have the flexibility and freedom required in a country with so many natural wonders to explore, photograph, experience, and admire. With a car and a driving plan, you can always take your time and easily adjust or change your route. But - there are many aspects to consider when renting a car in Iceland. It is in many ways different from hiring a car in any other country. So, I encourage you to read this article carefully before you rent a car here so that you don’t end up with the wrong car. The type of roads in Iceland When it comes to finding a rental car in Iceland, the process can be more complicated than in most other countries. This is primarily due to the fact that many of the roads you will travel on while visiting Iceland's natural wonders and other places of interest are gravel, mountain or dirt roads. It's important to note that Iceland has three types of roads: asphalt, gravel, and Highland roads (F roads). At times, the places you plan to visit will require you to drive on all these types of roads, so it's essential to be prepared. In summary, the type of car you choose will depend on the places you intend to visit. A small rental car type is ideal for most roads during the summer A small 2WD car is a good option for driving around Iceland's main asphalt roads. It is also the cheapest way to do so. Small cars like the VW Polo, VW Golf, Toyota Yaris, Kia Rio, or Suzuki Swift can comfortably fit four people (consider the luggage you plan to carry as well). During the summer, a small car can take you to the most popular and interesting places, including natural wonders and accommodations. A small car is also suitable for driving on gravel roads during summer, especially if it has front-wheel drive, which is preferred by most Icelanders. However, it's important to remember that gravel roads are more demanding and difficult to drive on, so one should be cautious and drive slower than on asphalt roads. During winter, you can also travel on the main roads in a small car on drives, such as the Reykjanes Peninsula, the Ring Road, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and the Golden Circle. However, it's crucial to follow the weather forecast and road conditions from October until April, especially if you're in a small car. A mid-sized car is a better choice for comfort, especially during winter, and it's highly recommended for most places and drives. Time of year is important when choosing a rent a car Driving in Iceland during winter and summer is vastly different. For people living in warmer countries, it can be challenging to understand why Icelanders change their car tires in autumn and spring. Icelanders have two types of tires - "winter tires" and "summer tires" - because of the difference in driving conditions. Having personally experienced both, I know the difference, having lived in Southern California for six years. If you have no experience driving in winter conditions, it's best to consider a private tour with an experienced guide. Driving in winter and late autumn can be very difficult, especially if you're only used to driving on clean, dry roads in sunny weather. It's highly recommended to use a 4WD car or a front-wheel drive car if you plan to drive across Iceland during winter or autumn conditions. A larger vehicle type is better outside the main roads and during winter If you decide to travel to places away from the main roads, you are much better off hiring a midsize car, preferably an SUV or a 4WD car like VW Tiguan, Toyota Raf, Dacia Duster, or Suzuki Vitara. This applies to people interested in taking loops and exploring places off the main highways, such as Mjóifjörður, Látrabjarg in the West Fjords, Rauðisandur in the West Fjords, the Vatnsnes Peninsula, or some of the waterfalls that are not near the main road, like Aldeyjarfoss. The roads outside the main roads are most often gravel roads, going over steep mountain passes, and conditions change in rain and snow. For those roads, a vehicle with more space and larger tires is much better for your comfort and security. This is very important during winter. The weather The weather in Iceland is unpredictable. Even though we have a very efficient Met Office in Iceland, the weather can change rapidly in a short period at your location, often contrary to the original forecast by the Met Office. Despite this small issue of inaccuracy, when you are traveling in Iceland, the best option for weather is the website of the Icelandic Met Office. It is not uncommon that visitors plan to visit a specific place or area when planning a trip to Iceland, but when you are on your way or arrive, the conditions are not particularly inviting. This applies to all seasons, but most definitely in winter. This means that sometimes you need to spend more time inside your car than you planned when you set out. In summer, most of the time, the wind limits your options rather than the rain. A 4WD or 4X4 type is mandatory for the Highland roads in Iceland A small car type will not get you to the Highland if you choose to travel to this exotic part of the country. The Highland requires a 4X4 vehicle, but keep in mind that the Highland is only open from the beginning of July until the middle of September. Most of the roads in the Icelandic Highland are challenging and rough gravel roads, often with many rivers to cross. No one should enter Highland Road in a small car, a midsize car, or a car that doesn't have four-wheel drive and low gear. It is simply too dangerous and irresponsible and can severely damage the vehicle and even ruin it if stuck in a river; this can lead to a cost far exceeding the total expenditure on a trip to Iceland for the whole family. If water is sucked into the air intake of a car, the engine is ruined, not to mention the panic and the consequences of being stuck in a small car in the middle of a strong stream or a river. Tourists visiting Iceland have lost their lives in such circumstances, with the last incident being in September 2018 when a young woman drowned in a river in Þórsmörk. Keep that in mind when you select a car for the Highland. No rental car company or insurance company in Iceland covers a drive crossing a river. It can also be dangerous as a 2WD and a small 4WD, or even a midsize 4WD car with no low gear, can easily become stuck on a difficult road in the Highland. Few Icelanders would ever take such a risk, given their knowledge of the Highland. They are only too conscious of the danger to the passengers, who are often children and family members. But for the Highland roads, even a 4X4 is not always enough. A large, well-equipped, and even modified 4X4 vehicle is required for many rugged roads and tracks in the Highland. For these roads, a Toyota Land Cruiser, Jeep Wrangler, Toyota Hilux, Land Rover, or a similar vehicle is highly recommended for your convenience and security. Please don’t underestimate this premise. Keep this list in mind when traveling in a rented car in Iceland There are three kinds of roads: asphalt, gravel, and mountain roads (F) Iceland is a small island, and the distance between places is usually short Almost all of the roads are narrow, two-way roads. THERE ARE NO FREEWAYS IN ICELAND Reduce speed considerably when driving over a one-lane bridge (there are many such bridges everywhere) Don't stop on a road shoulder or in the middle of the road to take photos! The speed limit is 90 KM/hr on main asphalt roads around the island The speed limit in Reykjavík and the towns is 50KM/hr The speed limit in residential areas in Reykjavík and in all towns and villages is 30KM/hr The restrictions on alcohol consumption for drivers are at 0.5 promille, like in most other European countries 4X4 cars are both safer and easier to drive in the Highland and during winter There are plenty of gas and charging stations around the country in all towns and villages A large 4X4 is required on Highland roads, the F roads Always check road conditions on The Road and Coastal Administration webpage, especially during winter Cellular phone connections are good on most roads and around the country Never try to cross rivers in a small 4X4 car or without understanding the river There are towns and villages almost everywhere around the coastline on the Ring Road, and you are never far away from help if needed Watch out for sheep on the roads (especially in spring and early summer) Pick up your rented car at the international airport in Keflavík Fuel prices are more or less the same around the country, and fuel is always expensive Emergency help is available almost everywhere in Iceland Check Safetravel all the time and every day for anything unusual during your tour to remain updated regarding the conditions in Iceland. When conditions are adverse (snow, snowdrift, slippery, bad visibility), don't hesitate to drive slower at a comfort level where you feel in control. In a situation like that, remember to slow down and give the right indicator light (blinker) when it is secure for the cars behind you to pass. Avoid holding up the traffic, as other drivers, especially local folks, might understand the conditions differently and better. Iceland is a small country and a small island Iceland is a small island with one International Airport. Keflavik Airport (KEF) in the city of Keflavik is the place where almost all visitors arrive. It is the best place to pick up your rental car, and most rent-a-car companies deliver their cars at Keflavik airport. There are many rental car companies in Iceland, and the airport is a good place to find the type of car ideal for your tour. If you want to have everything ready when you arrive, you should rent a car online.

Written around the 12th and 13th centuries, the Icelandic sagas recount stories about the settlement and medieval times in Iceland. These stories are about the people who came from Norway, Ireland, and England around 900 CE and how they settled around the island’s coastline. The Sagas were written by those who lived in various places or some in monasteries as Iceland remained a catholic country until 1550 CE. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is one of the most Saga-invested parts of Iceland. Every part and every place has a reference to one of the major Sagas, the most prominent being Eyrbyggja or the Saga of the People of Eyri and Laxdæla. In fact, one could argue that Eyrbyggja is the most fascinating of them all as the stories in it have an otherworldly tone and thus have strong references to modern sci-fi literature. Berserkjahraun is part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. The Berserkjahraun lava field On the Snæfellsnes Peninsula lies the magnificent Berserkjahraun, or the Berserk Lava Field, located in the county of Helgafell (“Holy Hill”), near the Stykkishólmur town. The source of the lava field comes from four prominent but differently sized scoria craters forming an east-west row from the Ogress Pass (Kerlingarskarð). They erupted in bouts approximately 3600–4000 years ago. The lava flow also created two lakes on south side of the region, adding to the serenity and beauty of the landscape. Like many lava fields in Iceland, Berserkjahraun is a joy to view but tough to navigate. The best way to visit this place is to drive from the main road when you are on your way between the villages of Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur nr. 54 on the northern part of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and turn to the gravel road nr. 558. While driving along this road through the lava field, you will find many places where you can stop and walk around to enjoy the spectacular landscapes. Berserkjahraun is an ideal place for having a peaceful camping experience This beautiful area is ideal for doing recreational activities such as hiking, angling, and mountaineering. When driving along the gravel road shown on the map below, the one that leads into and around the lava field, you'll find small meadows ideal for camping. If lucky, you might even be able to spot a white-tailed eagle’s nest in the rugged lava field. Moreover, a hike up the nearby mountains will give you a spectacular view of the Breiðafjörður Bay and thousands of islands. What is the story behind the name Berserkjahraun? The name of the lava field, Berserkjahraun, comes from the Eyrbyggja Saga. It tells the story of Vermundur the Slim, a farmer at Bjarnarhöfn, close to where the shark museum is now located. As was common among Vikings at that time, he sailed to Norway and brought back two Swedish berserks in 982 CE but with unforeseen consequences. The Berserks’ names were Halli and Leiknir. Vermundur meant to use them as a threat so he could stand up to his powerful brother Styr the Slayer. The Berserks´ temper However, Vermundur was a wimp and didn't have what it took to handle the Berserks’ fierce temper. Soon after arriving in Iceland, he was forced to ask his brother to take them off his hands. Styr the Slayer reluctantly obliged but soon began to face problems and regrets. The berserk's killing sprees and uncontrollable temper was the least of them. Besides all the misfortune that the berserks brought, Halli fell in love with Styr's precious daughter and asked for her hand in marriage. After seeking advice from some of his wise friends, mainly Snorri Goði, Styr informed the berserk, he would give Halli his blessings only if they accomplished a few tasks. They were required to clear a bridle path through a rugged lava field between the farms Bjarnarhöfn and Hraun that fell within his land, to build a fence with lava rocks around it, and build a sheep pen. The last sauna of the Berserks´ While they were slaving away, Styr prepared an underground sauna for them. The sauna was covered with sturdy rafts and had a hole in the middle – for pouring in water to create hot steam. The berserks completed their tasks in a short time and returned. Styr invited them to relax in the sauna, and they accepted. Right after the berserks had entered the sauna, Styr stacked big boulders on top of the sturdy rafts. And then, through the hole, he poured boiling water. The sauna soon became unbearably hot, and the berserks wanted out! It took all their power to break the rafts and move away the boulders. By then, they were exhausted. Yet, they were set on revenge. However, Styr had spread wet and slippery bull hides on the ground around the sauna. The berserks were totally incapacitated, and Styr managed to kill them both. The lava field was named after the brothers Styr had the berserks' bodies removed to a basin in the lava field where they were cairned close to the bridle path. Since then, the lava field has been called Berserkjahraun, or the Berserks Lava Field, and the cairn is still visible today. It is a great story to understand and experience how literary heritage and our natural wonders are interwoven.

When you are at Hellnar, it isn't easy to imagine that this tiny hamlet on the south coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula used to be one of the largest fishing villages south of the glacier. However, with only a few people living there permanently today, it doesn't look like an ideal location for a fishing station. Currently, the tiny hamlet is more like a small tourist village. The attraction is the rocky shore, cliffs, and strong currents bashing the shoreline. And by the coast, there doesn't seem to be much room to maneuver a rowboat, let alone a fishing vessel, although a remnant of a small dock still exists. Hellnar is part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. The shoreline and the magnificent lava formation But mind you, the shoreline has eroded during the ages, and today you can spend a long time by the rocky beach enjoying all the magnificent formations resulting from the battle between the ocean and the lava rocks. And Hellnar is also a charming destination for those who seek the thrill of being in the company of the elements. Possibly elves and trolls, as Hellnar has a reputation for being a favorite place for such creatures. Being so close to the majestic glacier Snæfellsjökull and the home of the famous troll Bárður Snæfellsás who still protects the area around Snæfellsjökull glacier, while enjoying the ocean's mighty currents and observing the abundant birdlife is an excellent way to pass the day. The walking track from Hellnar to Arnarstapi The cliffs between the Hellnar and Arnarstapi villages are a Natural Reserve. The two-and-a-half-kilometer hiking trail over the lava field along the cliffs and shoreline offers an exceptional experience. At Hellnar, you will find an excellent café on the stormy beach and a lovely eco-friendly hotel. In addition, the track is a fantastic destination for photographers.

Öndverðarnes is the name of the outermost point of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and a little lighthouse. The place is a small land or a stripe by the shore that made it possible for centuries to serve as a fishing station. Unlike most of the nearby area that is covered with lava and craters from eruptions thousands of years ago. Öndverðarnes is, therefore, surrounded by large lava fields on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other side. It is a fascinating place, although not necessarily one of the most beautiful places in Snæfellsnes Peninsula or Iceland, for that matter. Öndverðarnes is part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. There are remains from the old fishing station Understandably Öndverðarnes was an extremely isolated place for those who lived there and those who worked at the fishing station. When you drive the harsh road through the lava from the main road, you might be surprised to know that this road was built only 70 years ago. For centuries people working at the fishing station had to walk a difficult path through the lava. Although the main attraction throughout the centuries for living at Öndverðarnes was rich fishing grounds nearby, the place seriously lacked a suitable landing place, like a cove. This made life much harder and probably contributed to the end when the fishing station was permanently closed in the first decades of the 20th century. The small lighthouse and the cave and the well Faxi For Icelandic fishermen, a lighthouse at Öndverðarnes was crucial to guide them past this point at Snæfellsnes Peninsula before GPS. Access to the lighthouse was one of the main reasons why the road was built. Curiously there is also an unusual hole or a cave by Öndverðarnes. It is also a well and has the name Faxi. To reach the water, you need to walk down a narrow path. The well also made it possible to have a fishing station at Öndverðarnes for centuries, as access to water was crucial. How to drive to Öndverðarnes If you are looking at Öndverðarnes and planning to go there, you are most likely planning to drive the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. At the end of the peninsula, you drive the road nr. 574. This is the road that you drive around the glacier Snæfellsjökull. On that road west of the small village Rif, you find road nr. 579, where you turn westward. This is a road that will take you to Öndverðarnes. The first few kilometers is an asphalt road, but most of the road is a narrow gravel road. Be prepared to meet other cars in a narrow space. This road also takes you to Svörtuloft, and soon after, you take the turn to the beautiful Skarðsvík beach.

Rif and Hellissandur are two tiny villages situated merely three kilometers apart on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, with a population of 600 as of January 2021. By any definition, they are the same village and today belong to the same municipality, Snæfellsbær, which was formed in 1994 when Ólafsvík and both these communities merged. Both villages trace their origins to rich fishing grounds in Breiðafjörður Bay and good natural landing spots for small boats. Until the 20th century, most of the people in Iceland lived on farms, and agriculture was the primary source of food and income. Historically, both villages contained what constituted additional resources for many farms located inland, including access to the shoreline and fishing at fishing posts such as Rif and Hellissandur. These farms would send their men to fishing posts during the winter months, from February to April. In the first years of the 17th century, there were more than 60 fisherman huts in Hellissandur; thus, Hellissandur is often considered one of the first fishing villages in Iceland. This cluster of houses might have developed into a larger town if it wasn't for its isolated location at the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Another factor that contributed was a smallpox epidemic that hit the area in the early 17th century with dramatic consequences—the two villages almost ceased to exist. Rif and Hellissandur are part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. Trading Posts and Rich Fishing Grounds In the second half of the 18th century, both communities began to regain their strengths. Hellissandur became more of a trading post when, in 1891, the village became a certified trading place, authorized by the Danish King and authorities. At that time, Iceland was a Danish colony. On the other hand, Rif became the fishing and fish processing part, as it had a better harbor. Fishing and fish processing are still the primary sources of income for most people, although service is also essential. Rif preserved its position as a fishing village even after the Icelandic government introduced the fishing quota system in 1983. Fishing and fish processing thrive in Rif, benefiting the whole municipality of Snæfellsbær. The owners of the most significant parts of the fishing operation in these small communities were quite clever when it came to the new reality after the quota system was implemented. Since then, they developed their fishing sector ownership into Iceland's largest fishing industry company, with extensive operations in Reykjavík and many places along the shoreline. The Most Isolated Villages became part of a Popular Tourist Attraction Due to landslides and avalanches, the short part of road nr. 574, below the northern slope of Mt. Ólafsvíkurenni, was a notorious and dangerous drive until the late 80s. This is the road connecting the two villages, Rif and Hellissandur, on the one hand, and Ólafsvík town on the northern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula on the other. This challenging part of the road contributed to the two villages' isolation for a long time. The other alternative, the drive from the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, was considered a long drive through a difficult and poorly maintained gravel road. This is hard to picture in your mind when no one can drive through both the south road and the road that was moved farther from the slope of Mt. Ólafsvíkurenni in 1984 on a well-maintained asphalt road. But the road below the slope was a significant step in linking the two small villages to the rest of the country as well as in opening the westernmost part of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula with many fascinating natural wonders to tourists. Part of a Larger Municipality Most of the homes in Rif and Hellissandur are single-family houses built in the 70s and 80s. Unlike most of the towns and villages in Iceland, the houses are not heated with geothermal heating as they are situated in what we call the "cold area," with no access to geothermal water. Here, the homes are heated with electricity. Although a small community and often isolated throughout decades and centuries, the municipality has always provided good basic services. The first elementary school started in 1891. Today, there is an excellent elementary school and preschool in Hellissandur, and the library opened in 1913. The municipality of Snæfellsbær also has a good sports center and a swimming pool. In Hellissandur, a maritime museum emphasizes the history of the rowing boat—a great place to visit if you want to understand the complicated lives people endured in this part of the world for centuries. By the museum, you will also find an excellent camping site and, in both villages, accommodation, and small restaurants and cafés. In Hellissandur, two of my good friends run one of the most charming cafés in Iceland, Gilbakki, in a beautiful house by the main road. I highly recommend this place for anyone driving through Hellissandur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Stykkishólmur is a town on the north coastline of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in Western Iceland. Including the town and surrounding rural area, the municipality's population is around 1400 as of January 2022. Many people who visit Iceland and travel around the country may find it surprising that several of the country’s towns and villages have a short history. Although the settlement in Iceland started around 870, most towns and villages began to develop only around the middle of the 19th century and some even at the beginning of the 20th century. The main reasons for this are the late urbanization and Iceland's continued reliance on agriculture as the main economic base. However, there are exceptions, and one of the more interesting towns with a relatively long history is Stykkishólmur. The town is also s part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. A town with a natural harbor and rich fishing grounds We can probably trace the origin of Stykkishólmur to one crucial aspect: a natural harbor. Súgandisey, a small island in front of the town, provides good protection for strong northern winds. This is noticeable even today when you walk around the harbor area and up to the top of the small island. Its iconic lighthouse provides a great view over the town and the Breiðafjörður bay. Because of these excellent conditions, Stykkishólmur became an important trading post early in Iceland's history. Contrary to several other towns and villages around the coast, it was not fishing but trading that played a crucial role in its early history. The area around the coastline in the Breiðafjörður Bay and the various islands had many productive farms that offered commodities of interest to people in England and mainland Europe for several centuries. A history of trading The first trading post in Stykkishólmur can be traced back to the early 16th century, even before our rulers at the time, Denmark and the Danish king, implemented the notorious Danish–Icelandic Trade Monopoly (1602–1787). From that time, trading has been at the heart of Stykkishólmur's history. The small village was also one of the official trading districts at the time of the monopoly. As a result, for almost two centuries, you had to go to Stykkishólmur if you had anything to trade or were looking for interesting commodities to buy. However, soon after Denmark abolished the monopoly, Ólafur Thorlacius from Bíldudalur, a small village in the West Fjords, purchased the trading operation in Stykkishólmur, which proved to be a prosperous decision for the town. His son, Árni Thorlacius, who took over all his operations in 1827, was an even greater entrepreneur than his father. Árni became active in trading, fishing, fish processing, and farming. In 1828, he built a large house for his home and companies called the Norwegian House. The marvelous house still stands, having been renovated a few years ago, and accommodates the local museum. It is a must-stop when you visit Stykkishólmur to get a peek into life in 19th-century Iceland. The Community Most of the houses and homes in Stykkishólmur today are single-family houses. Although the town has proportionally more old houses than most towns and villages in Iceland, most were built in the sixties and seventies. Many of the older houses are close to the harbor. Most of them have been renovated in recent years and largely contribute to the town's attractiveness. The homes are heated with geothermal heating from a nearby farm owned and operated by Reykjavík Energy, the Reykjavík heating and power plant. With its sustainable energy, the town is thus a part of the green revolution that started in Iceland in the fifties, although the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is in a so-called cold area. This only shows that Icelanders go a long way to find a green and viable solution to their energy needs. Overall, the town is an excellent place to live in, much appreciated by its inhabitants. Stykkishólmur is a great town to visit with good service for people traveling in Iceland I always enjoy visiting Stykkishólmur. I have great childhood memories of this beautiful town, having stayed twice at a summer camp with the Sisters of St. Francis. Their progenitors had arrived in Stykkishólmur in 1935 and built a hospital, a preschool, a summer camp for children, and a printer's workshop that they operated for over 80 years. This is one reason you will find a Catholic church in Stykkishólmur, which is located near the former monastery close to the harbor area and now the Fransiscus hotel. Find a rental car in Iceland Put in your preferred dates and compare prices between all major rental car companies The municipality offers services similar to those of residents in most towns and communities in Iceland. It has preschools, both elementary and middle schools, and a library. The old library is now the Library of Water, set up by the internationally acclaimed visual artist and writer Roni Horn is a unique and exciting museum you should not miss. There is also a music school and sports clubs for the younger generation. The town participates in the high school in the nearby village of Grundarfjörður. Stykkishólmur also has an excellent sports center, a soccer field, and an outdoor swimming pool close to the camping ground. You will also find a variety of accommodations in Stykkishólmur. The harbor still has a central role in the town, and there, you can hop on the ferry to Flatey Island and take tours of the magnificent Breiðafjörður Bay and its many beautiful islands. In addition to service and tourism, the Stykkishólmur economy also relies on the ocean. It has a thriving shellfish processing plant but has otherwise never developed major fish and fishing operations similar to the other towns and villages on the north side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Arnarstapi, a tiny village on the south coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, is one of Iceland's favorite destinations. It is a mesa surrounded by natural beauty, a wonderful hiking trail by the shoreline, great history, and the best access to the Snæfellsjökull glacier. But this tiny village wasn't always this small. Like many towns and villages in Iceland, it had the potential to become a larger village or a town. It was an important trading and fishing post during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Interestingly, the trading and fishing posts on the north side of Snæfellsnes Peninsula developed into towns and villages when most of those on the south side did not. One of the reasons might be the better livelihood conditions in Breiðafjörður Bay, which provided abundant fishing grounds compared to Faxaflói Bay. Today, the small Arnarstapi dock is an important harbor for small boats with limited fishing permission and a popular destination for recreational boats. Arnarstapi is part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. A tiny village with an impressive history The village is at the foot of Mt. Stapafell, a rather small but distinct mountain that played a role in Iceland's history when the island was being settled. It was home to Bárður Snæfellsáss half-brother Þorkell, who emigrated to Iceland with his brother. One of the Icelandic sagas is dedicated to Bárður, and it is indeed a different story, as the brothers were descendants of trolls. Consequently, both were huge men and became influential figures in the southern Snæfellsnes Peninsula. In Arnarstapi, you can see a life-size sculpture by the artist Ragnar Kjartansson erected by the village shoreline, befitting the local guardian spirit. His grandson, Ragnar Kjartansson, is Iceland's most renowned artist. Amidst a beautiful landscape Part of Arnarstapi's beauty is the lava formation surrounding the small harbor. Another interesting element is the basalt column formations, the small caves, and the lava landforms along the coastline all the way to the small Hellnar hamlet. This part of the shoreline has been a natural reserve since 1979. Following the quite accessible and easy hiking trail from the dock, you will discover magnificent cliffs and caves and fantastic birdlife. The coast is a great place to explore and spend time as it has many interesting photographic opportunities. You can comfortably observe the kittiwake, the arctic tern, razorbills, and the fulmar up close in summer. It is wise to have a hat or a small stick when walking this trail, as the arctic tern is sometimes quite aggressive when protecting its nests. See and feel the force of the Atlantic Ocean During your hike, you will also experience the full force of the ocean as it clashes with the cliffs and the ravines along the way. It is a powerful and energizing experience, but do not stand too close to the edge if you want to survive the impact. Here is where you walk alongside lava that has recently, in geological terms, flown to the ocean from the craters close to the glacier Snæfellsjökull. This is what makes the coastline so unique compared to most coastlines around the globe. In Iceland, you can only see and experience this at Arnarstapi and Hellnar and on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Arnarstapi has a good camping ground with excellent facilities. Along with Hellnar, it also has comfortable accommodations and a few restaurants and cafés. It is convenient to stop at if you are taking a two-day drive around the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Reynisfjara black sand Beach has, in recent years, become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Iceland. To Icelanders, it is not a surprise as the beach, and the surrounding area has a lot to offer in terms of natural wonders and spectacular experience. It is a display of magnificent and panoramic natural wonders and a meeting place of immense natural forces. Many natural wonders wrapped up in one Reynisfjara is a beautiful black sand beach stretching on a three-kilometer reef to the west of the small mountain Reynisfjall (340 meters high), where you find the parking lot and a service center with restrooms and a small restaurant. When you enter the beach, a view to the south towards the Atlantic Ocean opens up. Here it is quite unique to watch the powerful waves come in and crawl the beach for their destructive intentions. The large black sand beach consists of black sand (originally volcanic ash) and softly shaped small pebbles. Here you can take a short walk to the west along the reef that separates the Atlantic Ocean and the river mouth or the small lagoon Dyrhólaós. Here you can find a peaceful spot and face the breeze from the Atlantic Ocean, even when Reynisfjara is crowded with people. You can also take a walk to the eastern part of Reynisfjara beach, where you have a great view of the spectacular Reynisdrangar basalt stacks right off the shore. When the tide is low, and the wind is calm, you can easily walk the beach and view the 340-meter-high mountain Rynisfjall on one side and the stacks and the ocean on the other side. A spectacular experience as the place is also usually crowded with birds. The basalt column formation When you enter the beach, you will encounter one of the most spectacular basalt column formations in Iceland right in front of you at the foot of the mountain Reynisfjall. A place that one could almost believe was designed thousands of years ago with selfies on a phone camera in mind. It is a beautiful photogenic landscape from every angle and a perfect background for a selfie. One of the most exciting parts of the basalt column is the cave Hálsanefshellir. As the basalt column formation in Iceland is gaining more and more interest, it is worth noticing that Reynisfjara is one of the country's most impressive basalt column sites. This part of the beach could easily be a stand-alone reason to visit black sand beach. Here we must add that it is also a bit of a dangerous place as there have been several small landslides from the south slopes of the mountain in recent decades, small rocks sometimes fall down from the ceiling of the cave, and when the tide is high and the weather severe (most notably in winter) walking this part of the beach can be dangerous. The glacier and the mighty volcano On a good clear day, even the view from the beach to the north is impressive. From the beach, you have a great view of the mountains south of Mýrdalsjökull glacier and also towards the famous glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The ice cap Mýrdalsjökull is most famous for its dangerous volcano Katla sleeping under the nine-hundred-meter-thick ice. Katla is one of the most notorious volcanos in Iceland and has the habit of waking up at an interval of one hundred years. The last eruption was in 1918. The surrounding of Reynisfjara also has abundant birdlife; from May to late July, you will most likely see some puffins. Everyone must remember that although the waves might look innocent, they are mighty, strong, and powerful A place where forces of nature have fought their battles for thousands of years Although a beautiful area of natural wonders, it is also a meeting place, or shall we say a battlefield, of natural forces. Throughout the centuries and even thousands of years, and day by day, the Atlantic Ocean attacks the land, the coastline and bit by bit breaks part from and reshapes the beach, cliffs, and stacks. Everyone must remember that although the waves might look innocent, they are mighty, strong, and powerful, and sometimes highly dangerous. Caution is needed, especially when the tide is high, and the winds are strong. We also must remember that the waves are not equal in size. Every 14th to 20th wave from the Atlantic Ocean is considerably larger than the other waves and floods farther up on the beach. The waves are very deceiving, and everyone needs to take care, and risk-taking is not recommended. When you look to the west to Dyrhólaey and then to the east to the Reynisdrangar stacks, you see the cliffs made of solid rocks and in between the reef consisting of volcanic ash. The geological material that the ocean so desires to demolish, but the volcanic island continues to add and fight the power of the sea. When you enter the beach, you will encounter one of the most spectacular basalt column formations in Iceland Access is quite straightforward and easy Like many natural wonders in Iceland, access and free admission are simple. If you are traveling the Ring Road Nr. 1. It is located on the south shore west of the small village of Vík. When traveling from Reykjavík, the capital of Iceland, you take a turn south on the road Reynishverfisvegur Nr. 215 and drive approximately 6 kilometers. This is the only road to Reynisfjara beach, and you cannot access this place from the village Vík. You should take notice of the farm Reynir as it has been part of Icelandic history form more than eleven hundred years and is mentioned in our book of settlement. It is also an area with many fascinating folklore stories, including an interesting story about the church and how it was built. When is the best time to visit Reynisfjara? Iceland is placed on planet earth up north near the arctic and has four clear and distinctive seasons. There is a clear difference between spring, summer, autumn, and winter. This also means that every place in Icelandic nature is different depending on the season. This affects everything you see and experience in an area like Reynisfjara. The beach is accessible all year round, and every season has its charm, but often in winter, the weather makes it challenging to visit as the roads are difficult, slippery, and even closed. If you want to enjoy this magnificent place in its full blossom and color, the best time is from late April until late September. If, on the other hand, you want to experience the full and mighty force of nature and see big waves and harsh environments, it is a good idea to visit Reynisfjara from October and March. I hope you enjoy our website and information when planning a tour to Iceland, and below, you find more information about nearby places. The Atlantic Ocean is quite the sculptor, much apparent in various locations around Iceland. Reynisdrangar, just south of the dramatic black beaches of Vík village are three spiky basalt sea stacks rising from the ocean 66 m into the air. Legend has it that the three stacks were formerly two trolls dragging a three-mast ship towards land throughout a night. Alas, it was a slow maneuver and the night wasn't long at that time of year. At the break of dawn up rose the Sun and cast its rays on the trolls, instantly turning them into stone. The stack next to land, Landdrangur, is the fogy, Langsamur the ship is in the middle with the old hag, Háidrangur, at the rear end. Photogenic stone trolls This disaster was, by no means the end of the trolls. Even today you can hear their wails and laments when you drive from Vík village to observe them up close. They never have and never will accept their destiny. So close to their warm and cozy home in Mount Katla, the most ferocious volcano in Iceland and all their labor lost. But fortunately for us, the two trolls and their looted ship are incredibly photogenic and always worth visiting. Be on alert and aware of the DANGEROUS waves on the beach Although both folklore story and landscape are fascinating for the camera and anyone's imagination, you must remember if you visit Reynisdrangar, either from the east side from Vík or from Reynisfjara on the west side, that the ocean and the waves are often extremely DANGEROUS. Much more dangerous than trolls. Especially when the tide is high, and winds are strong. The waves might look innocent and calm as they softly crawl in and cover the beach, but they are often quite strong and demanding on the way out, almost unpredictable. Everyone visiting should read the signs and understand that the waves are dangerous not only in high tides but also in strong winds. Everyone visiting Reynisfjara should BE CAREFUL!

Ólafsvík, on the northern shoreline of Snæfellsnes Peninsula, is first mentioned in the Book of Settlement in the Icelandic Sagas when Ólafur Belgur, or Belly as he was apparently nicknamed, settled there around 900 BC. The region around Ólafsvík is also a large part of the setting for one of the funniest and most interesting sagas, the Eyrbyggja Saga, written in the 12th century. Today, in 2022, Ólafsvík is a small town of 1000 inhabitants that has undergone both ups and downs throughout the centuries. As a hamlet began to take shape, the area became compact with fishing huts, as fishing grounds near the shore were plentiful. At one point in the 17th and 18th centuries, commercial vessels began sailing between Ólafsvík and Denmark, and the village became one of the larger trading ports in Iceland. Ólafsvík soon became a certified trading center, authorized by the Danish King and Danish authorities, in the late 17th century. Thus, this beautiful town has been around for many centuries and played an essential role in the history of Iceland. Ólafsvík s part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. Ólafsvík is an old fishing town The town mainly consists of single-family houses developed and built in the 20th century. This becomes quite evident when you walk across the town and up the slope from the harbor. Although many homes were built in the 17th and 18th centuries, most of them were huts and sheds and have long since disappeared. The oldest building currently standing is a warehouse that was built in 1844; it was a local store. Like it was for most towns and villages around the coastline of Iceland, things took a dramatic turn at the beginning of the 20th century. After decades of using small rowing boats and docked vessels, Icelanders started to import motorboats. This development had substantial economic effects. Harbors were improved, and fish processing and fish exporting developed. Unfortunately, Ólafsvík didn’t have many entrepreneurs or opportunities to participate in the motorboat venture, probably because it did not have the appropriate harbor. Accordingly, the economy of the town declined considerably from the first decade of the century and didn’t catch up until the 40s and later, as the harbor wasn’t satisfactory until the 60s. My grandparents on my mother’s side were born and raised in Ólafsvík. They lived there until the late 40s when they moved to Keflavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Even though my grandfather was a shoemaker, they could not provide for themselves and their four daughters in Ólafsvík since poverty and shortage were widespread then. It was thus a very difficult time for the town and its inhabitants. The municipality Ólafsvík and the church These are some of the reasons that Ólafsvík has a special history among the towns in Iceland. It has witnessed both its heyday and its downfall throughout many centuries. However, today, the economy has stabilized, making it a good place to live in. The houses are kept warm with electric heating since Ólafsvík belongs to a part of the country that doesn’t have access to geothermal heat. Some years ago, Ólafsvík merged with its neighboring villages of Rif and Hellissandur and is now part of the larger municipality, Snæfellsbær, along with adjoining districts. Currently, the economy is primarily based on fishing and fish processing and thriving. An aspect that doesn’t go unnoticed when you visit Ólafsvík is the beautiful church that towers over the town. Unlike most churches, you see around the island, which all have a similar architecture. Built and consecrated in 1967—it was designed by the architect Hákon Hertervig, who was at the time in his early 40s—it was one of the first modern churches in Iceland and has become iconic for Ólafsvík as a town. Living in Ólafsvík Snæfellsbær is a municipality that offers the typical “good-quality” service required by residents. The town has excellent preschools and elementary and middle schools. It also has a music school and advanced sports facilities. The economic growth in the 60s and 70s was based on the regional development policy initiated by the Icelandic government to enhance the quality of life around the coastline. The policy greatly improved options for the younger generation. Some decades earlier, swimming pools were built in many places in Iceland, which is also true for Ólafsvík. In the 70s and 80s, many towns and villages suffered a setback after introducing the fishing quota system. However, Snæfellsbær has survived quite well, and fishing is still an important part of the economy. The town has also moved toward tourism, and in Ólafsvík, you will find good restaurants, accommodation options, gas stations, a wonderful camping site, and other fine services required when traveling in a foreign country.

Grundarfjörður is a small town along the northern coastline of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. As of January 2024, the population of the municipality is approximately 1000. Although the town was never part of the mainstream tourist traffic in Iceland—or in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, for that matter—it is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country since the mountain Kirkjufell made an appearance in the famous television series “Game of Thrones”. The mountain stands on the western side of the town, and it is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful mountains in Iceland—second only to Herðurbreið, the queen of Icelandic mountains. Close by, just south of the mountain, is the waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss. Together, the mountain and the waterfall form one of the most photogenic views you can find, and they display almost a perfect photo each time someone attempts a shoot with the waterfall in the foreground and the mountain in the background. Consequently, the mountain has become the icon of Grundarfjörður, and traffic in the small town has exploded in recent years. Grundarfjörður town is part of the Snæfellsnes Road Trip, which is described in more detail in a separate article. Grundarfjörður is a beautiful old fishing town Historically, Grundarfjörður is a fishing town like most of the towns around the coast of Iceland; its harbor is one of the best in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. But prior to becoming a fishing post, Grundarfjörður was a trading post for the many farms scattered over a relatively large area around the town. It was certified as an official trading post late in the 18th century by Iceland’s rulers, the Danish King, and Danish authorities after the trading monopoly was abolished. As a trading post, it only attracted a few people, and it didn’t start to take shape as a village until fishing and fish processing increased in the 1940s, when the government funded a project to develop the harbor. So, when you walk around the town, you will notice that most of the houses are from the early and mid-20th century. You might also notice that these are mostly the typical concrete single-family houses you see around Iceland, with very few old wooden houses of the kind found in Stykkishólmur. A town with a French connection At the turn of the 18th century, French fishing boats started fishing in Icelandic waters during spring and summer. They came in such numbers that the French government considered it necessary to set up some services there for the fishermen. They built a hospital and a church in Grundarfjörður, and some officials stayed through the winter. A similar operation was set up in Fáskrúðsfjörður village in the Eastern Region. In the decades after this French “invasion” started, suspiciously dark-colored babies started to pop up in the general population around Grundarfjörður—they looked more French than Nordic. Today, one can even see some possible descendants: people who don’t look Nordic at all but, nevertheless, trace their bloodline to ancestors a long way down their Nordic family trees. It was probably a good improvement to the genes that had marinated in hardship and hunger for two to three centuries in Iceland at the time. But when the French officials left Grundarfjörður, they took everything with them. Buildings, boats, furniture, and even coffins of people who had lost their lives were transported back to France. Consequently, nothing remains in Grundarfjörður that indicates or proves that the French were there for decades. This is very much in contrast with the other French town in eastern Iceland, Fáskrúðsfjörður, which is but a mini France. Grundarfjörður has a good position in the fishing industry Despite its relatively long history as a place of inhabitation hardly larger than a farm, Grundarfjörður didn’t begin to develop as a town until the early 19th century, and a real village formed only by the 1940s. Therefore, the town and all the houses are relatively new, with most of them built in the sixties and the seventies. Today, Grundarfjörður has a solid economic base in the fishing industry. With the increase in tourism, other industries and services connected to tourism and education are also growing. The town offers a variety of places for accommodation, including hotels and guesthouses, as well as a good campsite. A considerable portion of the population also works in schools and healthcare. Living in Grundarfjörður Like most municipalities nationwide, Grundarfjörður offers its residents premium services. The town has good preschools, primary schools, and elementary schools. It also has a high school/college that educates all the Snæfellsnes Peninsula communities. The town has a library, a sports center, a swimming pool, and a community center. Grundarfjörður also offers excellent social service to those in need and cares for the young and the elderly. It is a family-oriented small town offering a good-quality life right in the midst of the spectacle and wonders of nature.

For many centuries, and even up until the 1980s and 1990s, most places on the westernmost part of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in Iceland were relatively isolated. This was due to the fact that the road leading to these areas was a difficult gravel road, and was not maintained regularly. In particular, the part of the road that ran from Ólafsvík village to Rif/Hellissandur villages was often considered dangerous due to its location on a slope that was susceptible to landslides in summer and avalanches in winter. It wasn't until the 1980s, when the road was permanently changed and moved lower to the shore, that the westernmost part of the peninsula was finally connected to the rest of the country. Malarrif is part of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula Road Trip, which you can read about in more detail in a separate article. Malarrif Although it may seem unusual now, Malarrif farm used to be a very isolated location. Nowadays, it is easily accessible by car via an asphalt road that connects it to Arnarstapi village and Hellnar hamlet and can be accessed in both summer and winter. However, as with most roads in Iceland, it is important to take precautions during the winter season, and it's advisable to check the weather forecast before embarking on this part of the road. Find accommodation in Iceland Put in the name of the place you plan to visit to check prices and availability Malarrif is an old farm and an old lighthouse with a new role The shore by the farm is the interesting part here as most of the shoreline of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Today it is the main center for the Snæfellsnes National Park, and when traveling in Iceland and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you should visit the center. The walk from the tourist center to Lóndrangar and the rocky pebble beaches are pretty spectacular. For decades, the old lighthouse had an essential role for Icelandic fishermen as they fished in the rich fishing grounds by the shore. Fishing grounds that Icelanders used for centuries. It was built in 1917 and rebuilt in 1947. The lighthouse's height is 20 meters (66 feet), and the light has a range of eighteen miles. At that time, the Malarrif farm was one of the most isolated farms in Iceland. It was also the westernmost farm on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. A center for all the beautiful places to visit at Snæfellsnes Peninsula Malarrif Information Center is an essential stop when visiting the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It is an information center for Dritvík, Djúpalónssandur, Vatnshellir cave, Hellnar, Snæfellsjökull glacier, and many other interesting places at Snæfellsnes Peninsula. When you are driving on the road nr. 574 at the end of Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you take a turn south on Road nr. 5737 to stop at Malarrif.