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Writer's pictureEinar Páll Svavarsson

Búðir and the black church at Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Updated: 13 hours ago

 

The little black church at Búðir Snæfellsnes Peninsula
The little black church at Búðir Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Búðir is primarily recognized for its iconic black church, constructed in 1850. However, the region has a rich history that predates the church. For many centuries, Búðir served as a vital trading post and fishing station on the southern part of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, playing a significant role in local commerce and trade. The area also held some administrative functions during this time. Most of the activity was concentrated in the surrounding regions to the south and northeast of Búðir. Unfortunately, at the end of the eighteenth century, a devastating flood destroyed many of the houses and left the hamlet in ruins. Subsequently, development shifted to the site where the church and the hotel are located today. 

 

The lava field Búðahraun

From the church you can see Búðaklettur crater (left hill).
From the church you can see Búðaklettur crater (left hill).

Búðir has never been a suitable area for farming or cultivation, primarily due to the presence of Búðahraun, a vast lava field located to the west of Búðir. Just one glance at the rugged lava terrain makes it clear that the soil is far from ideal for agriculture. The cove to the east and northeast of the church, formed by the mouth of a few small rivers, served as an excellent landing spot for fishing boats and trading vessels. Throughout history, particularly during the settlement era and up until the late 18th century, Búðir was a significant fishing station and trading hub. However, after a major flood, its prominence declined, leaving only the church, a place for lodging, and some minor commercial activities. In recent times, as local residents and tourists from around the globe began to explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the charming little black church drew their attention, breathing new life into the area. 

 

The little black church at Búðir 

The view to Snæfellsjökull glacier
The view to Snæfellsjökull glacier

For many visitors, the sight of a black church standing by the shoreline is a compelling reason to stop by. Originally constructed in 1850, the church was initiated by Steinunn Sveinsdóttir, who carefully preserved sacred items from a small turf church that was dismantled at the close of the 18th century. Remarkably, some of these items are still housed in the current church, which continues to serve as an active place of worship. Along with the first church, a cemetery was established, as the area was then just barren lava. To create a proper burial ground, the bishop instructed everyone in the parish to transport sand from the shore to fill a large depression for the graves, forming the cemetery that exists today. Over the years since its founding, the little black church has undergone numerous renovations and is now, alongside the cemetery, well-maintained and a delightful place to visit. 

 

Th view and the surrounding area at Búðir 

Búðir and surroundig area
Búðir and surroundig area

A visit to Búðir is not just a journey; it's immersion in the breathtaking natural beauty that defines the area and its stunning surroundings. Upon arriving at the iconic church, you are immediately struck by the remarkable setting of this quaint structure, perched beautifully against the backdrop of untamed nature.


Explore the shoreline 

 After parking your vehicle conveniently near the church, take the time to explore the shoreline. A leisurely stroll toward Frambúðir, an old fishing station resting beside a picturesque shelly beach, is a must. This area invites you to soak in the serene coastal atmosphere and perhaps, enjoy a moment of reflection by the water. 


Hike to Búðaklettur

 For those seeking a bit of adventure, I highly recommend embarking on a hike to Búðarkelttur via the trail known as Klettsgata. This trail leads to an impressive crater that played a significant role in forming the Búðahraun lava field approximately 5,000 years ago. The hike covers a distance of just 3 kilometers (2 miles) each way, making it a manageable trek that typically takes no longer than two hours to complete. 


Look closer at the lava at Búðir

As you navigate the trail, particularly during the summer months, you'll be treated to an astonishing display of diverse plant life, which flourishes in this unique environment. The view that awaits you at the summit of the crater is nothing short of spectacular, offering a panoramic vista that showcases the rugged beauty of the surrounding landscape. The path meanders through the remnants of the ancient lava field, enhancing the sense of wonder as you connect with the geological history of the region. In every sense, Búðir is a remarkable destination that offers both tranquility and adventure, making it an unforgettable place to explore and appreciate the wonders of nature. 



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