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- Birnir Jón Sigurðsson, harnessing the Creative Force
Birnir Jón Sigurðsson was raised in the ambitious and competitive town of Kópavogur In Iceland, everything you need is short-distance. When you are raising children, it is easy to let them have a try at most anything that sparks their interest. If it is sports, a proper sport-hall is sure to be in your neighborhood. Be it music, and a music school is sure to be connected to their school. In most places, the same goes for dancing and drama, art and handicraft, skiing, hiking, sailing, fishing, hunting. Most Icelandic children have a chance to get acquainted with their field of interest from a very early age. And, did I mention travelling the world? In Kópavogur a young man, Birnir Jón Sigurðsson, was raised enjoying all the advantages of a prosperous community. Situated next to Reykjavík while still being a "kind of" small town, the Kópavogur administration has always been ambitious and competitive. With the first music hall in Iceland, Salurinn, an excellent museum/gallery, Gerðarsafn, great libraries and first class sports facilities, Kópavogur has been able to offer their young quite an advantage when it comes to finding out what they want to do with their life. A sabbatical year In spite of his young age, Birnir Jón already has a surprising experience and success in writing and directing drama, as well as filmmaking. He has been writing and directing at the Ungleikur (Young Theater), a venue for young people who are planning for a future in the theatre and has recently premiered one of his pieces at a Ungleikur festival at the City Theatre. After graduating from college in 2013, Birnir Jón decided to take a sabbatical before starting to prepare for the future. "I spent four months working on everything I could get my hands on to gain some money. Then I spent six months travelling through Spain and South-America," says Birnir Jón. "My purpose was to gain experience, get acquainted with different cultures, amass ideas and have fun. It was really worthwhile." Upon returning to Iceland, Birnir Jón spent a year at the University of Iceland studying Film Studies. He also staged a musical at his former college. "It was a strange experience," he says, "I staged the musical along with a friend of mine. Neither one of us had any experience in staging anything, but suddenly we were working with 50 teenagers, actors, dancers, musicians and set designers. It was a matter of learning as you go and was a powerful experience. Fortunately, the staging was a big success." First price for first short film But, the dice was rolling. The summer before starting University Birnir Jón was working at "Creative Summer-jobs" a project launched by Kópavogur a few years earlier. The aim of the project was to give young people a chance to work in their creative field of choice. Birnir Jón and his friend made a short film. During the winter, the film won the first price in a short-film competition in Iceland. It was sent to a short-film festival in Tahiti where it also won the first price. It was sent to further three short-film festivals, amongst them Cannes. Birnir Jón took the film to Cannes and said it was a very educational experience. "During my year at the University I also joined the University Theatre Group," says Birnir Jón. "Apart from acting I took part in creating a play along with the group and the director. We performed in a theatre in Hafnarfjörður. There I got to know a new friend, Arnar Geir, and the following summer we made another short film we still haven't yet submitted for viewing.” Running a film school “When I returned home from South-America, I knew I wanted to do something creative. I enrolled in Film Studies because I wanted to learn about filmmaking. But, the university course was all about theories and not at all what I was looking for. So I decided to create a project called the Film Commune, an independent non-profit film school in Kópavogur. Lára Marteinsdóttir and our teacher, as well as, I run it voluntarily and we get rent-free facilities from the town. Monday through Thursday we meet between 10.00 and 14.00. We bring our works and ideas there, work on them and discuss them amongst ourselves. We motivate ourselves, and each other, to work on something creative, instead of just drifting. On Fridays, we work with a teacher. We watch and discuss films and receive a bit of academic basis. The Film Commune is all about finding your voice, your own projects. It is about dedicating time to your ideas and projects.” Learning responsibility “Kópavogur offers excellent facilities for those who are planning their future. They provide a house, called Molinn, which is used, among other things, by young people preparing a future in the creative industry. We can work there during the winter. During summer, we can apply for a grant in Creative Summer-jobs. For eight weeks, we receive basic salaries while working on our own projects. It is invaluable and a great encouragement. Of course, we have to complete our projects that provide us with a sense of responsibility. We are simply thrown into the deep-end of the pool and told to swim. It has been a great experience." When asked what it was like for a creative child to grow up in Kópavogur, Birnir says it was okay. "The funny thing about Kópavogur is that it doesn't have a town center with a centralized art scene. Instead of a center it has a town shoulder called Hamraborg. There we do have a library, the music hall, the music school, the museum and Molinn. My feeling is that Kópavogur has always been a bit more about sports, but I think it is beginning to wake up and fuel the art scene due to programs like the Creative Summer Jobs and art grants. I quite like the development." In spite of liking his hometown, Birnir is getting a bit restless to turn his time and energy full-time to filmmaking. His next step will be to find a film-school abroad. He hasn't decided where, but he is well prepared. And yes, two of his latest music videos will be aired in December.
- Francesca an Italian girl who fell in love with Iceland when she was fourteen
We at Hit Iceland met Francesca last summer hitchhiking on the Ring Road from Kirkjubæjarklaustur to Reyðarfjörður. Fortunately, we were driving al the way to Neskaupstaður, only a mountain pass away from Reyðarfjörður. We fount her story fascinating as she had traveled to Iceland with her parents fifteen years earlier and completely fallen in love with the country and the Icelandic nature. After that, she has been in Iceland a few times for work and travel. We were also impressed by all the places she had visited in the Highland. Again while driving the seven-hour drive, when she told us that she had met her boyfriend Carlos from Spain in Iceland, we had to love the story. Francesca was kind enough to send us her story and images from Iceland to share with our readers. Brush her teeth with mom in the morning wearing flip-flops on the snow My first time in Iceland was in August 2000 when I was 14 years old. I came with my parents and two cousins on a road trip (it was on a tour that my parents had booked from Italy and my first ‘real’ experience of travel.) We spent two weeks traveling the Ring Road and part of the Highlands. One of my fondest memories is when my mom and I woke up the morning of 15th August to a snowy landscape and had to brush our teeth wearing flip-flops on the snow. The evening before, on our 4x4 bus, we had crossed a large part of the country, which we hadn’t been able to see because it was already dark. We only knew that we had come to a cozy mountain hut. On the next day, which I used to associate with fireworks and a rather big family dinner at my grandma’s summer house in the Alps, what I experienced was totally unexpected and highly fascinating for a teenager who loved nature. A land of beauty and unpredictability There are other things I link with my first trip in Iceland, such as strange little cottages with grass on their roofs (which I’d learn to call turf houses in my later trips), the basalt pillars of Skaftafell, the swans at the Tjörnin pond in Reykjavik and the fact that we weren’t able to go out to sea and spot any whales in Husavik (due to the fact that all the snow and rain that had fallen when staying in the Highlands had made some roads impassable. We had to take a huge detour which left us with no time for whales) and of course, bathing at Landmannalaugar. The beauty and unpredictability of the country had made that 14-year-old girl decide that she wanted to move to Iceland, or at least spend part of her life there! Returned as an a volunteer for SEEDS Iceland and met her boyfriend Carlos from Spain It was twelve years before I could return. I applied for an EVS, a program run by the European Commission, and I became a volunteer for SEEDS Iceland. I spent seven amazing months running work-camps for international volunteers on farms and institutions around the country, meeting some amazing people, including the person I now live with, Carlos, who shares my passion for Iceland. I went back to Landmannalaugar with him and hiked to Thorsmork and Skogar. Then up the Highlands again to Karlingarfioll and Hveravellir. We found our way out from the fog thanks to a Fox in Hornstrandir, we finally saw the whales of Husavik on a chilly day of October and found plenty of other precious hidden gems spread around the country. One of them is a place called Laugarfell, in the highlands of eastern Iceland. It is a hot spring located at the foot of a hill and, next to it, a cottage with accommodation. Working in at Laugarfell in the eastern Highland in Iceland My second work camp with SEEDS took place there. I shared the experience of marking hiking trails with a group of Italians and Estonians. I kept in touch with our hosts, Pall, Hildur and Dagbjort, and two summers later I went back to Laugarfell to work for them, this time with Carlos. I arrived in June when the area is still covered in melting snow, nesting pink-footed geese and crossed by reindeer which are moving from the lowlands to the highlands. Working at Laugarfell gave us the opportunity to go on more hikes, including a memorable one from Laugarfell to Stafafell, into Lónsöræfi, at the end of July. Hiking Lónsöræfi and the weather was a surprise Our first day was spent hiking along the wetlands of the Eyjabakkar, with the top of the mountain Snæfell covered in fog but always watching us, seeing swans and families of geese waddling on the last patches of snow next to the river, or even climbing the glacier. We were not exactly sure where to. We got to the first hut, Geldingafellsskáli, as it was already getting dark. The sun was completely gone as the clouds coming down from Vatnajökull were getting lower and lower. We went to bed quite early, excited about what the next day would be like. We had the feeling that it wouldn’t be like the ones I was used to in Andalucia but, once again, Iceland managed to surprise me. When I got up at 5 am to go to the toilet I noticed that something had changed overnight. I was walking on snow! I felt like I was fourteen again. A layer at least 5 cm thick was turning everything white, and snowflakes kept on falling from the sky, well until 12 o’clock, when we finally decided that the snow wouldn’t stop us. We decided to stick to our plan to reach Egilssel, the next hut, as we had only a few days off from work. The fog made me feel sick for the first two hours as it always does when I go skiing, and it’s foggy. We walked, or rather hurried, up and down the hills, seeing only low clouds interrupted by the appearance of herds of ghost sheep climbing snowfields. Then we started our descent to Egilssel, which is located on the shores of Kollumúlavatn, and it started to rain heavily. By the time we got to the hut, we were totally soaked. Tough and unpredictable but rewarding Luckily there was another group of hikers who had got to the hut some time before us, so there was already a fire roaring in the fireplace. Late in the afternoon we enjoyed a walk down the valley into a fairytale-like landscape, as it was clearing up a little. After four hours of ‘darkness’, we were back to heaven: fast running streams, waterfalls, glaciers and mountaintops poking out of the clouds. The following three mornings we woke up to rain, sometimes very heavy, sometimes less heavy, still we were able to enjoy some quiet moments and scenery. Among these; Trollakokar, the rhyolite hills up Mulaskáli, chilling in the hut where we were the only guests with an Icelander hiking with her two fun kids, stop to camp in a clearing in the beech wood before the canyon at Stafafell, which was special to us because we had been there two years earlier. The rewards of hiking As always, the wilderness of Iceland faced us with tough moments but rewarded us in return. What happened at the end of our hike, on the Ring Road by Stafafell, says it all. I was feeling so cold and miserable that I doubted any car would stop to give us a lift to Djupyvogur when a cyclist shouted ‘hey, hi!.’I looked up and I saw the same guy from Texas we had hosted in Laugarfell a week earlier. That cheered me up a lot, even if he couldn’t take us where we were headed! Half an hour later someone did and shortly after we were having coffee and cakes at a café, ready to hitch-hike to Dettifoss to start our next hike to Asbyrgi but already thinking of going back to Lónsöræfi.
- Is the beauty Öræfajökull glacier ready to unleash its ugly red-hot magma beast?
In recent months earthquake activity has increased in Öræfajökull the southernmost outlet glacier in the Vatnajökull icecap. Just like the increased activity in the Bárðarbunga outlet glacier on the northern part of Vatnajökull this development is quite intimidating. Both outlet glaciers are also huge volcanos, and both have a humongous amount of ice on top. In addition to increased earthquake activity, scientists at the Icelandic MET office monitoring the Vatnajökull icecap and both outlet glaciers, have noticed that the icecap is rising. This could indicate that the underlying magma is pushing its way to the surface under the glacier. Both indicators, earthquakes, and the rise of the icecap, point to a growing probability of an eruption. And even though an eruption in Bárðabunga can produce a large disaster, an eruption in Öræfajökull will cause a monumental natural disaster. Öræfajökull along with Katla volcano is the most dangerous volcano in Iceland The main difference between the two is the distance to inhabited areas whereas Bárðabunga is more or less in the remote highland, but Öræfajökull towers over Skaftafell National Park and many farms, hotels, and tourist attractions. In case of an eruption, large-scale floods could occur in the many rivers coming from under the glacier tongues stretching out from the Öræfajökull outlet glacier. As the ice above the volcano is on average about 400 meters thick major floods, loaded with mud, rocks, and ash, are expected in a short period threatening and destroying everything in its path. Possibly within an hour from the start of an eruption. The ash from the eruption would also be similar or worse than the Eyjafjallajökull eruption. The scenario is similar only to the most feared volcano in Iceland, Katla. Fortunately, Iceland has many capable scientists equipped with state-of-the-art technology to monitor the situation and hopefully give us all time to respond if we are faced with the worst scenario. Öræfajökull stratovolcano is like many of its relatives, a beauty, and a beast Öræfajökull is a stratovolcano similar to Mt Rainier in Washington state and Mt Fujiyama in Japan. It is the highest mountain in Iceland 2110 meters. The diameter of the crater is about 4 to 5 kilometers, so in the case of magma entrance, there is a lot of space to spew lava and ash in all directions. In the Icelandic landscape, Öræfajökull and surrounding area are among the most beautiful places in the country, so a large area could be affected for years to come. Its next-door neighbor Breiðamerkurjökull outlet glacier and provider of icebergs to the Jökulsárlón iceberg lagoon could be affected. One thing is clear if an eruption occurs in Öræfajökull glacier, it will be a large-scale natural disaster as under this beauty lies a beast, a vast chamber full of glowing magma. At least that was the case in two of its last eruptions in 1362 and 1727.
- Imogen Wilson in a large city with a small town feel
A vibrant capital city that is home to approximately 220,000 residents, Reykjavík possesses the perfect blend of metropolitan energy and small town appeal. Whether it’s the hustle and bustle of its vivacious night life, the serene natural beauty of the nearby geothermal valley Laugardalur, or the allure of its diverse art and music scenes, Iceland’s capital has something to satisfy every tourist’s interests and expectations. For Imogen Wilson, a lighting and television set designer from Canada, Reykjavík has proven to be the ideal stopover getaway on her way back from a work-related trip to Finland, allowing her to relax while enjoying both nature and night life. Heading Home Imogen, who travels across the globe for her work in set design, decided to pause her journey home to spend a few days exploring Iceland. “I’m heading home to Canada and flying Icelandair, so I opted for the stopover,” she explains. “My itinerary is the northern lights, because it’s December, the Golden Circle and hopefully the Blue Lagoon. I was looking to go yesterday, but my tour got cancelled due to the weather.” A subarctic nation situated near the tail end of the warm Gulf Stream, Iceland—which is well-known for its volatile climate—experienced several record-breaking weather events in December 2015: heavy snowfall and a gusty storm that swept over the entire nation. Traditional winter weather in Iceland is fairly temperate compared to Northern America and Europe, with only occasional snowfall and deep freezes. However, aside from the delayed tour, the stormy welcome didn’t bother Imogen a bit. She used the opportunity to check out local bars and immerse herself in Reykjavík’s unique club culture: “I went Lebowski Bar last night and had a lot of fun!” she says, with a grin. Lebowski Bar, which is located halfway down the main shopping street Laugavegur, is a bar and restaurant combination, modelled after Joel and Ethan Coen’s 1998 neo-noir crime comedy film The Big Lebowski. A favorite destination among locals and tourists alike, Lebowski Bar is a great place to grab a burger and milkshake, before drinking an iconic White Russian and tearing up the checkered-tile dance floor. From what she’s seen of it, Iceland’s nature has also impressed Imogen, reminding her of another destination known for its mysterious, otherworldly beauty. “The weather and landscape reminds me a lot of Northern Scotland because the cloud cover hangs so low here,” she reports. “I’m hoping that the clouds will clear up a little tomorrow so that I can see even more of the landscape.” A High Recommendation After traveling to Finland, where she worked on the set of a popular celebrity talent show, Imogen has found Reykjavík to be just the right place to unwind: “I really like Reykjavík, and I’ve seen a lot of it. It reminds me a lot of a small town, but it seems like a small town without an end,” she describes. “So far I’ve enjoyed my stay here. Icelanders all seem very polite and kind, and I think they’re perfectly happy hosting travelers here.” Imogen reveals that she was named after one of the main characters in the Shakespearean play Cymbeline before encouraging others to take the time to visit Iceland, instead of just skipping over it on their way to another destination. “I would say absolutely come to Iceland,” she says with enthusiasm. “It’s such a pretty and unique place. Plus, if you’re flying Icelandair, it’s free to stopover, so why not just do it?”
- Freezing, windy – and amazing
A pleasant city with a cool climate, Reykjavík—Iceland’s capital—is home to a variety of locally-owned coffee shops, each with its own unique culture, charm, and clientele. Whether you are a casual coffee-drinker or a coffee connoisseur, the world’s northernmost capital has something to offer even the pickiest of palates. After their horse-riding tour was canceled due to a sudden winter storm, London residents Omid Pakan and Sophie Camp decided to grab their morning coffee at Café Brennslan, a popular two-story coffee house on Laugavegur, Reykjavík’s busiest shopping street. Despite the unpredictable weather, these two vacationers had a memorable three-day adventure in Iceland, one that they would highly recommend to prospective visitors. Enjoying the Winter Snow Although the weather slightly altered their itinerary, Omid and Sophie, who planned on departing later in the afternoon after we spoke to them, thoroughly enjoyed their time in Iceland, insisting that the December snowfall simply enhanced the holiday spirit. “There’s something quite beautiful about it,” Sophie, who works for a media outlet back in England, explains with a smile. “It’s very Christmassy, even if it’s not ideal driving conditions.” Omid and Sophie chose to rent a car during their stay so that they could take the Golden Circle tour and visit the Blue Lagoon independently, a decision that was both liberating and, at times, slightly perilous. “We didn’t get stuck in the snow, thankfully,” Sophie recalls. “We did see other people get stuck in the snow, though. We were out driving, and just as Omid was remarking that the locals seem to know how to drive in this weather, someone drove directly into a snowbank on the side of the road!” Using caution and following proper roadway safety procedures, Sophie and Omid arrived safely at Gullfoss, Iceland’s most spectacular waterfall—which proved to be one of the most rewarding parts of their stay. “It was amazing, but it was freezing and really windy,” Sophie proclaims, laughing. Omid, who works in law enforcement, was equally impressed by the waterfall’s imposing beauty, in spite of the -6˚C (21˚F )weather. “You’re not going to see waterfalls like the ones in Iceland anywhere else in the world,” he explains. “It’s a really beautiful place, and it’s well worth taking a short break to come visit.” A Clean and Modern City In between their countryside excursions, the couple explored the city of Reykjavík as much as they could, gladly partaking in the capital’s luxurious culinary culture. “The food’s been really nice,” Omid explains, sipping his coffee. “We ate at Grillmarkaðurinn and tried a few other local restaurants. They were really good—I just don’t know how to pronounce their names!” Sophie found the city’s many fresh fish options especially delicious and highly recommends them to anyone who visits. Sophie, who volunteers and makes balloon animals at a children’s hospital in her spare time, also appreciated Reykjavík’s quaint atmosphere and its perfect balance between bustling and easygoing. “There’s not a cramped, touristy feeling here that you get from other cities,” she explains, looking around. “It’s a very clean, modern city. We weren’t hassled by anybody during our stay, which was really nice.” Having never heard the language spoken before, the couple expressed interest in Icelandic and the ancient Nordic tongue’s future preservation. “We just read in one of the local papers this morning that the Icelandic language is changing and potentially dying out, which we found interesting,” Omid explains. Sophie nods and adds, “We encountered a lot of people from London and the U.S. while we were here, though, so I guess with the tourism industry it’s not too surprising.” A Friendly Environment While the Blue Lagoon, the Golden Circle tour, and Reykjavík left a positive impression on Sophie and Omid, interacting with Icelanders also proved especially pleasant and enjoyable for them. “Everyone here has been really friendly,” Omid says of the people they met during their travels. “And they’re all so happy to speak to you, which has been really wonderful.” Sophie agrees, explaining that if their flight happened to be delayed by weather, they’d be perfectly content to stay an extra day.
- The Joys and Challenges of Studying Icelandic
Icelandic, a North Germanic language with over 330,000 native speakers, is the official language of Iceland and the closest equivalent to the language of the Vikings spoken today. Due to Iceland’s cultural insularity and geographic isolation, the Nordic tongue has remained so well preserved that present-day Icelanders can still read ancient Viking texts in their original Old Norse with little to no assistance. This dynamic language, with its elaborate grammar and rich literary heritage, has fascinated writers, scholars and linguists across the world for centuries, including J.R.R. Tolkein, author of The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings trilogy. For Washington native Julie Summers, coming to Iceland has been more than just an extended vacation or a conventional study abroad trip—it has been an opportunity to explore her great grandfather’s heritage and a chance to immerse herself completely in the Icelandic language and culture. Time for a Change Julie visited Iceland for the first time in 2012, when she participated in a study abroad program for U.S. citizens of Icelandic descent who want to explore and learn more about their ancestry. “Part of the program involved a home stay with distant relatives who spoke almost no English, so I had to use my Icelandic, however limited it was,” she explains of her initial travels to Iceland. “Communicating with them was a daily struggle but so rewarding when I succeeded. After that experience, I decided to apply for a grant that would allow me to return to Iceland as a student. I was at a point in my life where I needed a change, and I wanted to find something challenging and rewarding, something of which I could be proud.” After moving to Iceland in 2014, Julie enrolled in the Icelandic as a Second Language program at the University of Iceland, which has proven to be an intellectually-stimulating if not exhausting endeavor. “The most difficult part is not the grammar, pronunciation, or huge amounts of memorization involved, but the mental and emotional toll of trying to exist in a second language,” she says of her continuing studies in Iceland. “It can be draining and disorienting not understanding what’s going on around you, always lagging a bit behind. And there’s the constant looming presence of English to combat; Icelanders are swift to switch to English with foreigners, which can be frustrating for learners.” Despite its challenges, learning Icelandic has been personally fulfilling for Julie and has given her a deeper understanding and insight into her family history: “The most rewarding part is noticing progress and being able to connect with people,” she explains about the process of learning such a complex language. “Recently, I was able to translate my great-grandfather’s obituary from Icelandic to English, which allowed me to connect to my roots in a deeper way and also do something meaningful for my family.” A Chance to Explore Although Julie has spent the majority of her stay in Iceland hitting the books and delving into her Icelandic heritage, she has also ventured outside Reykjavík on several occasions to catch a glimpse of the nation’s breathtaking scenery. “Reykjavík’s rich cultural life offers countless opportunities: concerts, literary events, festivals for every occasion,” she describes of her daily life in Reykjavík. “But one of my favorite experiences this past year was taking an impromptu 24-hour road trip around the Snæfellsnes peninsula with four friends. It’s an easy drive from Reykjavík and you can easily drive around the entire peninsula in a day; the challenge is not to stop every 100 feet to take another picture!” She recalls another noteworthy trip to Iceland’s rugged and desolate Westfjords, a prime destination for amateur and professional nature photographers alike. “There is nothing quite like seeing the farm where your great-grandfather was born and lived the first nine years of his life before emigrating to North America,” she says of the journey’s personal significance. “Besides that, the Westfjords are stunningly beautiful and because the region is a bit off the beaten path, there’s much more solitude to be found.” Julie’s interactions with Icelanders during her studies have been generally positive, as she’s been able to forge relationships with distant family members she would have otherwise never met. “I’ve generally found Icelanders to be a bit reserved at first but very warm and sincere once you get to know them,” she reports. “I’m lucky to have distant relatives here, and they have welcomed me with open arms. In some ways, the Icelandic idea of family is a lot broader than in the U.S. Here, it doesn’t matter so much if you’re someone’s first cousin or fifth cousin; either way, you’re a frændi or frænka (the Icelandic words for cousin).” A Daily Adventure While studying abroad can be a difficult adjustment for even the savviest of travelers, Julie has determined to make the most of each day she spends in Iceland, learning from every experience and growing academically and personally as much as possible. “Life in Iceland is a daily adventure and a wonderful opportunity,” she says, summarizing her experiences. “Although adjusting to any new place can be challenging, there is a supportive community of expats and foreign students here, and there are plenty of ways to get to know locals.” She highly recommends Iceland to others both as a travel destination and as a place to study abroad: “This country has so much to offer, and whether you come for a semester, a year, or longer, you will leave with beautiful memories and a desire to come back.”
- Researching and Relaxing in Iceland
For some tourists, traveling to Iceland represents an exciting, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, while for others one trip can turn into a lifelong relationship with the island nation and its people. For frequent visitor Dr. Kimberly Cannady—who teaches ethnomusicology at the University of Auckland in New Zealand—Iceland is just one of many stops on her most recent research trip across the Arctic. An American-born scholar who is writing a book about music traditions in the northernmost regions of the world, Kimberly’s fascination for Iceland’s rich musical heritage and stunning landscapes keeps drawing her back to the country, and she believes that others should take time out of their schedules to explore the wonders of Icelandic nature and culture for themselves. A Chance to Explore When we track her down one sunny autumn afternoon, Kimberly says she’s spent the bulk of this visit writing, researching, conducting interviews, and attending concerts, with one trip outside the city to soak in some of Iceland’s glorious scenery. “I did actually get out and drive around the ring road on this trip, which I’d never done before,” she explains. The highlights of her excursion included seeing the glaciers of South Iceland and relaxing in some small, quiescent towns of the Eastfjords. Her favorite experience, however, was taking a floating tour at the “Secret Lagoon” near Flúðir. “You can go to the lagoon on your own, but if you go with the Floating Tour Company they’ll give you special floating gear and then pump relaxing music through underwater speakers. You also get an underwater massage, and if the night sky is right you’re just floating there looking up at the northern lights…it was a relaxing way to spend one evening.” Kimberly has established professional and personal connections with Icelanders As someone who has visited Iceland multiple times, Kimberly has established professional and personal connections with Icelanders during her travels and has grown to appreciate their unique way of life. “This is a complicated place,” she says. “My impression of Icelanders is that they are a diverse group of people living in a small society that brings with it advantages and challenges.” One aspect of Icelandic life that initially surprised her was the prevalence not only of the tourism industry but also of North American culture. “Iceland conjures up images of a far away magical place, but the reality is that it’s nearly equidistant from New York to Iceland as it is to Los Angeles, and there are many things that the two places share in common…today what surprises me is how popular traveling to Iceland has become, and how the tourism infrastructure is constantly expanding.” A Memorable Destination When asked what she would say to someone who was on the fence about coming to Iceland, Kimberly gives the following advice: “It all depends on what you are interested in, how you like to spend your time, and what your other options are…Even if you live somewhere far away (as I do now), the long journey can still be worthwhile.” She recalls her mother’s enthusiastic reaction to Iceland and its nature when she came to visit her on one of her scholarly expeditions: “She still talks about it and if you ever go and visit her, she’ll probably ask you if she can show you some of the pictures she took when she visited.” This is not the first time Kimberly has visited Iceland, and it likely won’t be the last. “I think I will most certainly be back,” she explains. “My favorite part about Iceland is just spending time with friends and their families doing ordinary things like eating and drinking together…I enjoy the slightly less hectic pace here in Reykjavík as well as the ability to slip away somewhere out of the city for even more peace and quiet.” For Kimberly, a research trip to Iceland also means that she has a chance to frequent Reykjavík Roasters—her favorite coffee shop. “I really like their chocolate croissants and find myself looking forward to one with a cup of coffee every time I return!”
- Making Friends While Enjoying the Scenery
Although Iceland’s stunning landscapes and otherworldly scenery mesmerize sightseers and photographers from all over the world, Icelanders—and the stories they tell—can serve as a tremendous source of inspiration for tourists in search of fond travel memories and fresh perspectives. A fiercely independent people with a long-standing literary tradition, Icelanders are intensively creative and resilient people. Furthermore, their geographic isolation, coupled with their proximity to both America and Europe, grants them a distinctive outlook on life and the world’s affairs. Katy Tracy, who hails from Denver, Colorado, saw a large swath of the island nation during her week-long stint in Iceland, but it was the friendships she forged with the locals that left the deepest impact on her. A Spur-of-the-Moment Decision While some travelers methodically plan out their decision to come to Iceland, Katy booked her flights rather spontaneously after the travel bug bit her as she was filing her taxes earlier this year. “Well, one night, after drinking some rum and trying to do my taxes, I was thinking about how I hadn’t been overseas for four years,” she explains. “That just wasn’t acceptable, so I booked my ticket to Iceland, since that was more fun than doing my taxes. Iceland was one of the cheapest places for airfare, and its unique landscape and culture had been on my mind for a while.”Because she was flying solo, Katy did not hesitate to branch out and interact with fellow tourists as well as Icelanders once she arrived: “I tried making friends at my hostel and exploring Reykjavík with them. I also met some Icelanders, who graciously accepted my pleas to take me exploring.” After she made friends and acclimated to the city, Katy’s numerous countryside adventures commenced: “I climbed Mount Esja, went to the oldest thermal pool in Iceland, camped under a glacier, and swam in geothermal rivers. I also went to the Blue Lagoon, but I was not impressed, mostly because I was alone, and it’s way too romantic to go there alone. What was I thinking?” she laughs. For Katy, an outgoing writer and editor, one off-the-beaten-track destination proved especially memorable. “The highlight was definitely visiting Seljavallalaug,” she describes of her travels to the countryside. “My friends and I decided to camp across the stream from the pool, and it was exactly the experience I was hoping I’d get in Iceland. The beauty and wildness of the landscape, as well as the people I was with on that adventure, blew me away. A glacier, a geothermal pool, huge waterfalls everywhere, a precarious stream to cross, and the ocean not far in the distance—yep, doesn’t get much better than that.” Nestled in between two giant rock formations near Seljavellir in South Iceland, Seljavallalaug is often referred to as a “secret swimming pool” by travel journalists, as swimmers must first hike through a remote, desolate, winding valley to access it. Bonding with the Locals Though impressed by Iceland’s natural beauty, Katy thoroughly enjoyed the casual talks she had with Icelanders while exploring Reykjavík. “The Icelanders I met and became friends with were so intelligent and kind,” she explains. “They were eager to show me their city and country; I just had to ask.” She especially appreciated one informative conversation she had with an Icelandic woman while she was wandering through one of Reykjavík’s many outdoor recreational areas. “I remember I was walking through one park in Reykjavík looking at all these incredible statues, and an Icelandic woman who was walking her dogs decided to explain the statues, as well as talk about her life and Icelandic culture in general. That was a very special moment to me, as it’s not every day that a local decides to strike up an in-depth personal conversation about art with a stranger. I loved it.” Icelanders’ cutting-edge sense of style also struck Katy as she became better acquainted with the location and culture. “I was surprised by how beautiful Icelanders are!” she remarks. “I felt very inadequate every time some gorgeous, tall, platinum blonde walked by me on Laugavegur. And I was surprised by how small the overall population of Iceland is, and how young adults have to check an app on their phones before hooking up with someone at a bar, just in case he or she is a relative.” Worth a Second Trip Although her first trip to Iceland was fulfilling and eventful, Katy would love to return in the near future to experience more of what Iceland has to offer. “I would say my favorite thing about Iceland were the friends I made,” she says, adding jokingly: “And tasting shark.” Her brief visit gave her a treasure trove of warm, unforgettable memories that she will carry with her for a long time: “Iceland was my first solo travel venture, and I’m very thankful I made genuine connections with Icelanders who were eager to tell me about their culture and their lives. I had wonderful adventures, all thanks to them. I will definitely come back, because there was so much I didn’t see, including the northern lights.”When asked what she’d say to someone who is indecisively contemplating a trip to Iceland, she had a delightfully sarcastic response: “I would tell them: you know, it’s fine if you don’t want to ever have an Icelandic pony look you directly in the eye and teach you something important. It’s fine if you don’t want to see boiling pools of mud alongside a mountain covered in snow, and then go swimming in a warm stream. It’s fine if you don’t want to camp under a glacier, or see one of the 25 Natural Wonders of the World. Go on, keep living your life. I think Friends is still on Netflix—enjoy the reruns!”
- Takeshi Atwater-Kaji pursuing a passion for arctic languages and issues
Due to its high latitude and subarctic climate, Iceland is critically positioned at the forefront of the fight against global warming. In recent years, this tiny island nation has become a hub for international research and a whole host of conferences on Arctic policy making and preservation. One of the most prominent transnational gatherings for discussion of Arctic issues is the Arctic Circle Conference, which takes place in Reykjavík once a year. Takeshi Atwater-Kaji—a San Francisco native, who went to school at Columbia University in New York City—works in between Iceland and the U.S. throughout the year to help organize and bring the convention to fruition. His efforts and travels across Iceland over the past couple years have given him a deep appreciation for Arctic issues, Iceland’s unrivalled natural beauty, and the diverse languages of the Arctic’s inhabitants. A Love for Languages An accomplished linguist who studied evolutionary biology at Columbia and speaks Russian, Swedish, and French, Takeshi initially developed an interest in Arctic preservation and languages through his best friend in college. “My best friend was, and still is, working towards her PhD in Geography with a special focus on the Arctic, and the more I read her blog posts, the more I felt a northward linguistic pull in terms of my interests and reading habits,” he explains. This curiosity prompted him to pursue a unique volunteer opportunity with the start-up conference, which eventually led him to relocate to Iceland. “I started volunteering for the Arctic Circle during its first year as the social media kid,” he says. “I was still living in New York at the time, but I guess I was gung-ho enough about my limited volunteer duties that I was offered a more boots-on-the-ground paid role the next year.” He has been doing a variety of programming and event coordination work for the organization ever since. Feeling More at Home The more time Takeshi spends in Iceland, the more opportunities he has had to immerse himself in the nation’s distinct scenery and culture. “My favorite place in Iceland so far is the descent into Þórsmörk from Fimmvörðuháls,” he reports. “I hiked the Fimmvörðuháls trail twice last summer and greatly preferred the northward trek for its views, despite encountering worse weather. I’m a big fan of Avatar (the Nickelodeon cartoon, not the James Cameron movie), and I’d be very surprised if the setting of a particular fight scene in the finale of the third season weren’t based on Morinsheiði plateau.” Fimmvörðuháls is near Eyjafjallajökull, the notorious Icelandic volcano whose giant ash cloud famously disrupted air travel across Europe back in 2010. Takeshi admits that the longer he resides in Reykjavík, the more it starts to feel like home, and the more familiar and endearing Icelandic culture becomes to him. “My general impression is that Icelandic culture is the quirkiest form of Nordic bland reasonability. But coming from a multicultural background, there are no major surprises here; I understand Japanese culture from afar, and Iceland is still undeniably a part of the West, where I feel more at home.” An Ongoing Adventure As his work continues in Iceland, Takeshi would like to study Icelandic more in-depth, and has even considered putting off grad school plans to do so. “I’m in no rush to leave Iceland,” he explains. “I’m hoping (fingers crossed) to start a second B.A. in Icelandic as a Second Language in September, which would at least take two years, likely more since I’ll be working at the same time. The masochistic side of me wants to apply to grad programs in linguistics back home, but I am getting quite good at coming up with excuses to make delays.”When asked what he would say to someone who is on the fence about visiting Iceland, he reports that, aside from the country’s disappointing lack of good Korean food, he would not hesitate to give it a positive recommendation.“I’d happily tell them about what I love and dislike about Iceland, why I personally enjoy living here very much, but I’d stress that there’s nothing that I hate.”
- Wivian Kristiansen fulfilling a childhood dream in Iceland
Iceland is a nation that holds a special place in the hearts of many people from many places for many different reasons. Whether it’s the rolling landscapes, the charming countryside, or the vibrant capital city, Iceland’s geography never ceases to captivate and inspire all who visit. Wivian Kristiansen—a school teacher from Norway—first encountered Iceland as a child, not through a vacation, not through friends or family ties, but rather through a little-known children’s story book by an obscure Danish author (Inga Islandsfarer by Estrid Ott). Ever since she read this special book, Wivian resolved to move to Iceland one day so that she could learn the country’s unique language in-depth. In 2013, she temporarily uprooted her life in Norway, enrolled at the University of Iceland, and made her long-held dream a reality. An avid fan of Icelandic culture, music, and city life, Wivian—who is leaving Iceland in May, after residing in Reykjavík for almost three years—has the inside scoop on what to see and what to do, for visitors in search of an authentic Icelandic experience. Discovering Icelandic Wivian, who currently works part-time at an after school program for young kids, can vividly recollect the moment Iceland entered her life and consciousness. “I’ve been obsessed about Iceland since I was very young,” she explains, sitting at a Thai restaurant in downtown Reykjavík. “When I was eight, I ran out of books to read one time when my family went to our cabin, and my grandma said that there were books from the time my mother was young in the attic. I found this book about a young Norwegian girl who was sent to Iceland during World War II because her family was fighting in the resistance. It told the story of her last summer in Iceland, when she worked her way around Iceland with a couple of friends, and describes all the people they met and nature they saw along the way.” For Wivian, this simple story led to a lifelong fascination with Icelanders’ mother tongue, which is often cited as one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn. Wivian reports that mastering Icelandic is, indeed, a daunting challenge, one that is full of both rewards and frustrations. “For me, the frustrating part is the grammar,” she says, with a laugh. “Compared to Icelandic, Norwegian doesn’t have any grammar. I always tell the story that in my next life I’m just going to be born Icelandic, and then learn Norwegian. It will be so much easier!” Waterfalls, Architecture, and Concerts Although she’s a city dweller by nature, Wivian has travelled outside Reykjavík on several occasions to catch a glimpse of Iceland’s many majestic waterfalls. “I have this thing about waterfalls,” she reports. “I have friends who drag me along on day trips, and they always convince me to go by telling me that there’s a waterfall at the end of the trip!” Some of Iceland’s most spectacular waterfalls include Skógarfoss in South Iceland, Dettifoss in Northeast Iceland, and Gullfoss, which many tourists see on the famed Golden Circle tour. However, despite her love for waterfalls, Wivian cites Reykjavík as one of her favorite places in the world and encourages visitors to take a walk around the capital to explore and appreciate its unique architecture. “I enjoy walking around town and looking at all of the wonderful buildings, especially Hallgrímskirkja [the giant church in the center of town], which I like to call ‘my church.’ It has wonderful acoustics, in addition to being a beautiful building, and I’ve been to a lot of concerts there.” An admirer of Iceland’s premiere concert hall, Harpa, Wivian recommends checking out some of the building’s lesser-known, less-advertised musical performances in its smaller venues. “A lot of people think of Harpa as a beautiful building with a main hall, where they have operas and orchestral performances,” she explains. “But there are a lot of smaller concert halls in there, and they have all these secret concerts that they don’t advertise the same way they the shows in the main hall.” She also recommends checking out live music at Kex Hostel, Loft Hostel, Húrra [a local bar] and Café Rosenberg, for those who want to soak in the sounds of authentic Icelandic music in an intimate, cozy, laid-back atmosphere. “On any random Tuesday night you can find a concert somewhere in the city,” she reports. “That’s one of the things that surprised me about moving here and made me very happy!” Going for a Swim One of Wivian’s favorite activities is going for a morning or evening swim in one of Reykjavík’s numerous geothermal pools, which she says is a uniquely Scandinavian experience. “A lot of people are put off by the fact that you have to shower naked with other people before you get into the pool, but what’s so liberating here is that no one actually cares about what anyone else looks like!” she explains to those who might be reluctant to try it out. She continues: “You just have to get used to it. My local pool is like three minutes away from my house, and I go nearly every morning and wait outside with all of the old people who are waiting to get inside. The hot pots are where people meet and discuss current news, whatever is happening in Iceland and the world. It’s funny because all of these people talk and act like they’ve solved all the world’s problems during their morning bath. No matter when I get there I will see the same people at every time every day. It’s a huge part of life here. Icelandic children don’t know life without the pool.” Supporting Local Businesses Wivian has some key pieces of advice for fellow visitors to Iceland, urging them to go out of their way to support Icelandic food chains and businesses. “There are a lot of great places here for dancing,” she explains. “There are a lot of good museums. There are also so many things to see.” The rapidly-encroaching tourism industry has dramatically altered the business landscape in Iceland, so Wivian advises travelers to visit Iceland as soon as they can, before the island nation’s cultural identity grows even more obscured. “Come quick! The explosion in tourism is that the things that made people want to come here in the first place are disappearing because the tourism industry is taking over, and you can see very clearly that Iceland is becoming more and more a target area for international chains…Skip the puffin stores; there are a lot of Icelandic souvenirs, not made in China, that you can take home. Come to Iceland, and support local businesses!”
- Amalchi Castillo and Paul Sauline For the Love of Music
Once a year at the beginning of November, tourists and Icelanders flood the city of Reykjavík for the five-day music festival Iceland Airwaves. This energetic event not only attracts emerging and well-established bands from across Europe and North America -- it also draws in a diverse, dynamic crowd of music lovers and Iceland enthusiasts from around the world. London resident Amalchi Castillo-Rodriguez and New York resident Paul Sauline—two former neighbors—decided to travel to the festival together this year, looking to soak in the distinctive sounds of what has become Iceland’s most iconic international music event. A Cultural Fascination A long-time appreciation for Iceland’s thriving music scene and a fascination for the island nation’s gorgeous terrain drew these two adventurous friends to Airwaves. “It had always been a dream of mine to come here, and I visited for the first time last year,” Amalchi says about his connections to Iceland. “I was interested in the music coming from Iceland. I had heard about this festival but I missed it the last time I was here, so I decided to come check it out this year.” Amalchi, who is originally from Puerto Rico, and has been living and working in London for the past five months as a technology consultant, didn’t want to make his second journey to Iceland unaccompanied. “Amalchi called me up one day and asked me if I wanted to go,” Paul explains, his hands tucked casually in the pockets of his black trench coat. “I’ve never been to Iceland, and have never left North America before, so I got my passport and decided to join him.” Both men agreed that one of the highlights from the festival was seeing American indie-guitarist J. Tillman, aka Father John Misty, from the Grammy-nominated band Fleet Foxes, perform live. “I also hoped to see Björk in concert and pre-ordered my tickets well in advance to come see her. That was before she cancelled,” Amalchi explains, shrugging his shoulders. “Maybe next time, though.” Journeying Outside Reykjavík Because Amalchi had explored the northern and western parts of Iceland on his previous trip, he and Paul decided to sightsee across Iceland’s glorious south coast this time around, traveling to the glistening Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon before taking a dip in the luxurious Blue Lagoon. Although both trips outside the city were enjoyable, Iceland’s notoriously capricious weather had a few surprises in store for them along the way. “It was pouring down rain, and the weather was the windiest I’ve ever experienced,” Paul, a promotional filmmaker for Broadway productions, recounts of his experience at the Blue Lagoon. “Thankfully the weather was beautiful when we were out hiking.” These ex-neighbors, who lived side-by-side in Brooklyn, New York, for two years, had pleasant interactions with Icelanders throughout their travels and have grown to appreciate the nation’s charm over their week-long stay. “Icelanders are very straightforward people,” Paul explains. “They’re very proud of their country, so they like to talk about it, which means you’re always free to ask questions.” Amalchi admires how warm and welcoming Icelanders can be toward tourists: “My experience on the road is that they’re very trusting as well. When we were out traveling, a lot of the time the hostels were closed, and they would literally just give us the key, let us stay over, and then tell us to leave it there the next day. I think it’s really different back home in America; there’s not that level of trust.” Paul was surprised to see how lax and easy-going Icelanders are when parenting their children. “During our stay, one of thing that has really shocked me is that they leave baby strollers outside of cafés, stores, and restaurants with babies still in them,” he says, with a laugh, remarking that such a thing would also likely never occur in the States. Positive Reviews After hopping from venue to venue, and traveling from destination to destination, Amalchi and Paul do not hesitate to recommend the music festival to prospective attendees. “What’s there to be on the fence about? It’s a great line-up and a cool country,” Paul says to anyone pondering a future trip to Airwaves. Amalchi agrees with his friend, recalling the time when he first encountered Iceland and its unique musical culture several years ago. “I used to go to boarding school, and had this bad habit of going into CD stores and picking out music based on the album covers,” he says. “I remember finding this cover with a baby alien on it with lyrics that I didn’t understand. It was the second album from Sigur Rós, Ágætis Byrjun. I was so blown away by it and wanted to know more about the country where it came from.” He recommends not only coming to Reykjavík to attend Airwaves but also extending one’s stay to experience the country more in-depth. “I would say if you have a chance to make your trip not just about the festival but also about exploring Iceland, that’d be great. That way you get the best of both worlds.”
- Dr. Nicole Dubus helping Iceland Prepare for Syrian Refugees
Political upheaval and unrest in Syria has spawned a global refugee crisis and Iceland is doing its part to help. With no end to Syria’s political turmoil in sight, Iceland has recruited aid workers from around the world, who specialize in refugee response, to help them prepare for an increase in new residents. Enter Dr. Nicole Dubus, a professor at San Jose State University in California with over 20 years of experience in social work. Nicole, who has counseled refugees in community and mental health centers in the States, was enlisted as a specialist through the U.S. Fulbright program to advise Icelandic authorities on taking in and welcoming Syrian refugees. This winter, she spent several memorable and meaningful weeks collaborating with Icelanders, assisting them as they bridge the gaps between two distant cultures. A Pleasant Surprise For Nicole, the opportunity to go to Iceland came as a bit of a sudden surprise. “Years ago I had signed up on the Fulbright Specialist list stating my expertise in refugees,” she explains. “I long forgot that I was on the list. I then received a request in November if I could go to Iceland in two weeks to assist with the refugee resettlement process. Of course I jumped at the opportunity.”Though brief, her stay in Iceland proved tremendously eye-opening and rewarding, giving her a chance to learn more about Iceland’s geography and its important position in world affairs. “I found Iceland to be amazing,” she reports. “It was an honor to be part of the efforts to welcome the Syrian families. I was struck by dramatic contrasts of Iceland’s landscape: tectonic plates, volcanoes, geysers.” Nicole was also pleased by the warm welcome she received from Icelanders: “I was struck by the kindness of the residents. I found Iceland to be a country proud of its history, shaped by its place on the globe, and on the cusp of its importance changing on the global stage. As the Arctic Circle becomes more accessible, Iceland’s geo-political position is definitely shifting.” The Inside Scoop Working with Iceland’s immigration authorities also gave Nicole a fascinating glimpse into the inner workings of Icelandic society. She believes that Iceland’s small size makes the country’s agencies more adaptable, efficient, and responsive to the influx of asylum seekers: “While we have done remarkable work in assisting refugees [in the U.S.], we have also often worked in silos, each agency working to address the needs in front of them. This has created a situation where agencies might not be aware of the work other agencies are doing.”Icelandic agencies’ unique collaborative capabilities and adaptability, she believes, gives Iceland the potential to be a world leader in refugee issues. “In Iceland you have the unique opportunity to thoughtfully prepare and develop a network of communication among the service providers,” she explains. “Iceland can be on the forefront of developing best practice for working with refugees.” A Lifelong Fan Nicole’s positive experience collaborating and conferring with her Icelandic colleagues has transformed her into a lifelong fan of the country and everything it has to offer guests and tourists. She was even pleasantly surprised by the mildness of the weather, in comparison to her home state of Massachusetts. “I have lived in the Boston area for most of my life, and didn’t realize that my winters were worse than in Iceland! I have been a loud spokesperson for the wonders of Iceland. I fell in love with the culture, landscape, history of this country [during my stay].”